Barrel Collection Hardwood Installation Guide

Pre-Installation

Before you begin installation, remember to P.A.C.E. yourself with the checklist below.

Acclimation

Acclimate flooring in the installation room for a minimum of 72 hours before installation. Open box ends and break shrink-wrap covering planks. Place boxes in the center of the installation area, away from exterior walls, direct sunlight, and air vents. Flooring moisture content should vary no more than 3% from the subfloor moisture content.

Environmental Conditions

• Temperature: 60°F–80°F during installation and year-round
• Relative Humidity: 30%–50% during installation and year-round
• Building must be enclosed with windows and doors installed
• All wet work (cement, plastering) must be completed and dry
• HVAC must be running for at least 5 days before installation

Subfloor Requirements

Subfloor must be flat, level, clean, and debris-free. Maximum 3/16" variation over 10 feet. New concrete must cure at least 60 days before installation.

• Wood subfloors: Must be structural grade plywood or OSB, minimum 3/4" thick over 16" on-center joists. Securely fasten with screws. Moisture content must be within 4% of the flooring moisture content.
• Concrete subfloors: Apply moisture barrier (Titebond 531+ or Cavalieri Complete recommended). Calcium chloride test must not exceed 3 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. per 24 hours. In-situ probe must not exceed 75% RH.

Expansion Space

Leave a minimum 1/2" expansion space around all perimeter walls and vertical objects (walls, cabinets, pipes, columns). Larger rooms may require additional expansion space. Never install permanent cabinetry over floating hardwood floors.

Material Allowance

Order 8% extra material — 5% for cutting waste plus 3% for grading allowance. Install from multiple cartons simultaneously for the best color and shade variation.

Floating Installation

The floating method is the most DIY-friendly option and allows for easier future removal. The floor is not attached to the subfloor and expands and contracts as a single unit.

Underlayment

Install an approved underlayment and moisture barrier over the subfloor before floating installation. On concrete, a combination underlayment/moisture barrier is required. Do not use multiple layers of underlayment.

Floating Installation Steps

Step 1: Install the underlayment/moisture barrier per manufacturer's instructions. Tape all seams securely.

Step 2: Snap a chalk line 1/2" from the starting wall. Begin installation along the longest, straightest wall.

Step 3: Apply a thin bead of wood glue (Titebond II or III) to the tongue of each plank before connecting. This creates a moisture-resistant joint.

Step 4: Engage planks by angling the tongue into the groove of the previous row and pressing down. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to fully seat each plank.

Step 5: Stagger end joints by at least 6" between rows. Use cut pieces as starters for the next row if at least 8" long.

Step 6: For the last row, rip planks to width maintaining the 1/2" expansion gap. Use a pull bar for tight spaces against walls.

Step 7: Remove spacers and install baseboards, quarter-round, and transition moldings to cover expansion gaps.

Glue-Down Installation

Glue-down provides a solid, stable installation ideal for large rooms and commercial applications.

Adhesive

Use Titebond 675+ or an equivalent urethane adhesive rated for engineered hardwood. Follow the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations for trowel size, spread rate, and open time.

Glue-Down Installation Steps

Step 1: Prepare the subfloor by ensuring it is flat, clean, and free of debris. Apply moisture barrier on concrete as needed.

Step 2: Snap a chalk line and dry-fit the first two rows. Apply adhesive with the recommended trowel, working in manageable sections.

Step 3: Allow adhesive to reach proper tack per manufacturer's instructions before laying planks.

Step 4: Press planks firmly into the adhesive. Stagger end joints by at least 6" between rows. Maintain 1/2" expansion gap around all perimeter walls.

Step 5: Roll the floor with a 100-lb roller to ensure full adhesive transfer. Clean any adhesive from the surface immediately.

Step 6: Allow 24 hours before allowing foot traffic. Install baseboards and transition moldings after the adhesive has cured.

Nail-Down Installation

Nail-down installation provides a secure, permanent attachment to wood subfloors. This method is not suitable for concrete subfloors.

Required Tools

• Pneumatic flooring nailer (18-gauge cleats recommended)
• Rubber mallet and tapping block
• Tape measure and chalk line
• Table saw or circular saw for rip cuts
• 1/2" spacers

Nail-Down Installation Steps

Step 1: Snap a chalk line 1/2" from the starting wall. Face-nail or screw the first two rows (pre-drill to prevent splitting). These rows will be covered by baseboards.

Step 2: Use the pneumatic flooring nailer to blind-nail through the tongue at a 45° angle. Place fasteners every 6"–8" along the length and 2" from each end.

Step 3: Apply a thin bead of wood glue to the tongue before engaging each plank for added stability.

Step 4: Stagger end joints by at least 6" between rows. Install from multiple cartons for the best color blend.

Step 5: For the last two rows, face-nail or screw and fill holes with matching wood filler.

Step 6: Install baseboards, quarter-round, and transition moldings. Allow 24 hours before placing heavy furniture.

Care & Maintenance

• Sweep or vacuum regularly with a soft-bristle broom or a vacuum with a hardwood floor setting (no beater bar).
• Damp mop as needed with a pH-neutral hardwood floor cleaner. Do not use wet mops, steam mops, or excessive water.
• Wipe up spills immediately — standing water can damage hardwood.
• Use felt pads under all furniture legs. Use protective mats under rolling chairs.
• Maintain consistent indoor conditions: temperature 60°F–80°F, humidity 30%–50%.
• Avoid prolonged direct sunlight — use blinds or curtains to prevent UV discoloration.
• Periodically check and tighten any loose transition pieces or moldings.