Quick answer: Measure each step's width (at front, middle, and back), tread depth (front edge to riser), and riser height. Check for out-of-square steps using diagonal measurements. Measure the top landing separately for a landing nose. Record every step individually — never assume they're all the same. Use the worksheet at the bottom to capture everything in one place before you order.
Tools You Need Before You Start
- Tape measure — 25-foot minimum, locking blade preferred
- Notepad and pencil — or print the worksheet at the bottom of this article
- Framing square or speed square — for checking step squareness
- Straightedge or level — 24 inches or longer, for checking tread flatness
- Felt-tip marker — to number each step on the wall for reference
- Smartphone camera — photograph each step with its measurement written on the notepad in frame
- Flashlight or work light — many staircases are poorly lit for detailed measurement
Write step numbers on the wall lightly with the felt-tip marker as you go.
Label "Step 1" at the bottom, "Step 2" above it, and so on. This links your written measurements directly to the physical steps — critical when you're cutting 12 pieces with slightly different widths and need to know which goes where.
Stair Anatomy Labels — What Each Measurement Refers To
- Tread: The horizontal surface you walk on — the part being covered by the LVP stair tread product
- Riser: The vertical face between steps — may be covered with a matching LVP riser or left painted
- Nosing edge: The front edge of the tread — either the built-in edge of a full tread cap, or the manufactured stair nose profile
- Tread width: Wall-to-wall (or wall-to-open-edge) measurement of the step
- Tread depth: Front edge to riser — how deep the step is
- Riser height: Floor of the lower tread to floor of the upper tread — the vertical dimension
The 9-Step Measurement Process
Start from the bottom step (Step 1) and number each step with a light felt-tip mark on the adjacent wall. Include the top landing step in your count but note it separately — it will take a landing nose, not a full tread cap. Record the total step count.
For each step, measure the width (wall to wall, or wall to open edge) at three points: the front edge, the middle, and the back (near the riser). Record all three. Use the smallest measurement for cutting — tread must fit at the narrowest point. Typical variation: 1/8 to 3/8 inch across a step.
Measure from the front nosing edge to the riser behind it at both the left and right sides of the step. If the two measurements differ by more than 1/8 inch, the step is tapered — record both left and right depths. The tread must be cut to accommodate the taper.
Measure the vertical face (riser) from the top of the lower tread to the top of the upper tread. Building code typically specifies risers must be between 4 and 7-3/4 inches (IBC) with no more than 3/8 inch variation between steps. If you have significant riser variation, note it — it may indicate structural issues.
If there is an existing wood nosing (bullnose), measure how much it projects beyond the riser face. An oversized bullnose may need to be cut flush or ground down before the LVP tread can be installed flat. A bullnose projecting more than 1 inch typically requires modification.
Place a 24-inch straightedge or level on the tread surface. Any gap greater than 3/16 inch indicates a low spot that will create a hollow sound and may cause the tread to flex or crack over time. Low spots must be filled with a leveling compound before installation.
Measure from the front-left corner to the back-right corner, then front-right to back-left. If both diagonals are equal within 1/8 inch, the step is square and can be cut as a simple rectangle. If they differ, the step is out of square and must be cut to its actual shape. See the section below for the out-of-square process.
For each step, note whether the left side, right side, or both sides are open (visible to the room). Open sides require return pieces. Mark each step as: Closed/Closed, Open-Left, Open-Right, or Open-Both. This determines which return profiles to add to your order.
Write the step number and key dimensions on your notepad and photograph the notepad next to each step. This creates a visual reference that links the measurements to the physical steps. If you share these photos with our team, we can verify your measurements before you place an order.
Detecting and Handling Out-of-Square Steps
Out-of-square steps are more common than most homeowners expect — especially in older homes and in Florida where wood framing can shift seasonally. An out-of-square step means the four corners of the tread are not at 90-degree angles. The step may be a parallelogram, a trapezoid, or an irregular quadrilateral rather than a true rectangle.
How to detect it: The diagonal measurement test (Step 7 above) is the most reliable method. A difference of more than 1/8 inch between the two diagonals confirms the step is out of square.
How to cut to fit: For an out-of-square step, create a paper template by placing kraft paper or cardboard on the step and tracing the exact outline of the tread surface. Transfer the template to the stair tread product and cut along the traced line. This takes more time than a simple width cut but ensures a precise fit with no gaps at the walls.
For significantly out-of-square steps, professional cutting equipment — a sliding compound miter saw with a large capacity, or a track saw — produces cleaner results than a circular saw alone. This is one reason we recommend professional installation for staircases with complex geometry.
Measuring the Top Landing
The top landing is measured differently from the regular steps because it receives a landing nose rather than a full tread cap.
- Measure the full width of the landing edge — from wall to wall (or wall to open edge) — at the front of the landing where the stair begins. This is the nose length.
- Measure the depth of the landing behind the nose edge — the area that will be covered by field planks running across the landing. This determines how many planks you need for the landing surface.
- Note the landing's flooring direction relative to the main floor — planks should run in a consistent direction across landing and main floor where possible.
- Check whether the landing edge has an existing nosing that needs modification.
- Identify if either side of the landing nose is open-sided (requires a return piece).
Measuring Open-Sided Steps and Return Requirements
For each step with an exposed open side, you need to measure the riser height at that side — this determines which return profile fits correctly. Most return pieces are designed to match a specific riser height range. Note:
- Which side is open — left or right when facing up the staircase
- Riser height at the open side
- Whether the open end will be at eye level (living room-facing) or less visible (utility area)
- Total count of left returns and right returns needed across all steps
Winder and Angled Steps
Winder steps are the wedge-shaped steps used to turn a corner without a landing. They are significantly more complex to measure and cut than standard rectangular treads.
For each winder step, measure:
- Width at the wide end (outside of the curve)
- Width at the narrow end (inside of the curve)
- Depth at the wide end
- Depth at the narrow end
- The total angle of the turn (typically 90 degrees distributed across 2–4 winder steps)
Winder steps almost always require professional cutting.
The wedge geometry, combined with the large piece size of a stair tread product, makes precise DIY cutting very difficult. A mistake on a winder tread is an expensive wasted piece. For curved or winder staircases, we recommend professional measurement and fabrication.
Counting Treads vs. Nosings: The Formula
For a straight staircase:
This formula assumes all regular steps take full tread caps. If your installation uses a stair nose + separate planks approach on some steps, adjust accordingly — each such step needs one nose piece plus LVP planks to cover the remaining tread depth.
Printable Measurement Worksheet
Print this section or copy it to your notepad. Fill in one row per step before you start ordering.
| Step # | Width Front | Width Mid | Width Back | Depth Left | Depth Right | Riser Ht | Square? (Y/N) | Open sides | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top Landing | Nose only | ||||||||
| Step 1 | |||||||||
| Step 2 | |||||||||
| Step 3 | |||||||||
| Step 4 | |||||||||
| Step 5 | |||||||||
| Step 6 | |||||||||
| Step 7 | |||||||||
| Step 8 | |||||||||
| Step 9 | |||||||||
| Step 10 | |||||||||
| Step 11 | |||||||||
| Step 12 | |||||||||
| Step 13 |
Add rows as needed for your staircase. Print this table or copy to a notepad before measuring.
Translating Measurements to Your Order
Once you have the completed worksheet, here is how to convert measurements to an order:
- Tread count = total steps minus 1 (for the top landing which takes a nose)
- Landing nose count = 1
- Left returns = count of steps with left-open sides
- Right returns = count of steps with right-open sides
- For each step wider than the standard tread width offered: verify the product can be trimmed to your required width
- For each out-of-square step: plan a template-cut approach and confirm the tread piece is large enough for the actual step shape
- Add a minimum of 1 extra tread piece as a buffer for cutting errors
Bring this completed worksheet and your staircase photos to our Orlando showroom — our team will verify your count and confirm compatibility with your chosen stair tread product before you order anything.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I measure a stair tread for LVP?
Measure tread width at front, middle, and back. Measure tread depth at both left and right sides. Measure riser height. Check squareness with diagonal measurements. Record every measurement individually for every step.
How many LVP stair treads do I need?
Total steps minus one for the top landing (which needs a landing nose instead). For open-sided steps add left or right return pieces. Add a minimum of one extra tread for cutting buffer.
Do all stairs have the same tread depth?
No — variation of 1/4 inch or more across a single staircase is common, especially in older homes. Always measure every step individually.
How do I tell if my stairs are square?
Measure both diagonals of the step (front-left to back-right; front-right to back-left). If they match within 1/8 inch, the step is square. If not, create a paper template tracing the actual step shape and cut the tread to match.
How do I measure winder stairs?
Measure width at both the wide end and narrow end, and depth at both ends. The tread must be cut to the actual wedge shape — winder steps nearly always require professional cutting.
What is a return piece and when do I need one?
A return piece covers the exposed end of a stair tread or nosing when the step's side is open to the room. Measure riser height at each open-sided step and identify left vs. right based on which side is open when facing up the staircase.
Should I measure in inches or centimeters?
Inches, for US-manufactured stair products. Record to the nearest 1/8 inch.
What if my stair treads need to be cut?
Most treads can be trimmed to width. Always cut from the wall side — never from the nosing side. The factory-finished nosing edge is the finished edge and must remain intact.
How do I measure the top landing for a landing nose?
Measure the full width of the landing edge from wall to wall (or wall to open edge). This is the landing nose length. Also measure behind the nose for field plank coverage across the landing surface.
What tools do I need?
Tape measure (25-ft), notepad and pencil, framing square, 24-inch straightedge, felt-tip marker for numbering steps, and a smartphone for photographing measurements.
Want Us to Measure Your Stairs for You?
Cavalieri Flooring provides free on-site stair measurement and material takeoffs across Orlando, Lake Nona, Winter Garden, and Kissimmee. No estimates from photos — we come to your home.
Or call: (321) 424-0546
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Order the Right Pieces — Zero Guesswork
Bring your completed measurement worksheet to Cavalieri Flooring in Orlando — or schedule our free on-site measurement service — and we'll translate every number into a precise order with no surprises on installation day.